The 2023 schedule has not yet been released but you can review our 2019 schedule below.
Day 1: Sports Medicine
07:00-07:45 |
BREAKFAST (Quest Cafeteria) AND REGISTRATION (Multi Purpose Room)
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07:45-08:00 |
Welcome Remarks (Y. El-Sheikh, Multi Purpose Room)
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SESSION ONE: (MODERATOR: Y.
El-Sheikh)
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08:00-08:20 |
Injury Statistics in Sport Climbers (V. Schoeffl)
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08:20-08:45 |
Biomechanics and Anatomy of the Finger: Differences between
adults and adolescents (I. Schoeffl)
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08:45-9:30 |
Differential Diagnosis of Finger Pain (V.
Schoeffl)
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09:30-10:00 |
How to Examine and Treat the Climber’s Injured Wrist (H. von
Schroeder)
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10:00-10:30 |
COFFEE/REFRESHMENTS
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SESSION TWO: (MODERATOR: H.
von Schroeder)
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10:30-11:00 |
Surgical Treatment of Finger Repetitive Stress Epiphyseal Fracture
Nonunion in Adolescent Climbers (Y. El-Sheikh)
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11:00-11:30 |
The Impact of Forearm
Biomechanics on Wrist Stability (M. Buse)
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11:30-12:00 |
Clinical Neurodynamics: A Rock Climbing Case
Study (J. Vagy)
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12:00-13:00 |
LUNCH
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13:00-14:30 |
PRACTICAL SESSION ONE: Mirroring Movement: A Climbing Specific
Warm-up (J. Vagy)
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14:30-15:00 |
COFFEE/REFRESHMENTS
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14:30-16:00 |
PRACTICAL SESSION TWO: Finger Training with Blood Flow Restriction (T.
Nelson)
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Day 2: Social Sciences
07:30-08:00 | BREAKFAST |
| SESSION THREE: (MODERATOR: W. Bateman) |
08:00-08:30 | Shoulder Injuries in Climbers (V. Schoeffl) |
08:30-09:00 | Lower Extremity Injuries in Climbers (V. Schoeffl) |
09:00-09:30 | Rehabilitation of Upper Extremity Injuries in Climbers: a Staged Approach (N. Tappin) |
09:30-10:00 | Rehabilitation interventions for typical overuse rock climbing injuries in competitive climbers (E. Lajoie/J. Descheneaux) |
10:00-10:30 | COFFEE/REFRESHMENTS |
| SESSION FOUR: (MODERATOR: N. Tappin) |
10:30-11:00 | The Child and Adolescent Climber. Working with athletes (I. Schoeffl) |
11:00-11:30 | Anorexia athletica: The 5.14 denial (I. Schoeffl) |
11:30-12:00 | Anti-Doping Basics for Athlete Support Personnel (M. Lavigne) |
12:00-13:00 | LUNCH |
13:00- | FREE TIME |
Day 3: Training & Performance
07:30-08:00 | BREAKFAST |
| SESSION FIVE: (MODERATOR: Y. El-Sheikh) |
08:00-08:30 |
Conceptual Model for Effective Training
of Finger Strength and Rate of Force Development (E. Horst)
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08:30-09:00 |
Contemporary Stretching: Principles and Best Practice Guidelines
for Climbing and Coaching (C. Berman)
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09:00-09:30 | A Potential Classification Schema and Treatment Approach for A2 Flexor Pulley Strains (C. Cooper) |
09:30-10:00 | Teaching Older Adults to Climb: My 6-week climbing course for age 40+ adults (A. Lee) |
10:00-10:30 | COFFEE/REFRESHMENTS |
10:30-12:00 | SESSION SIX: (MODERATOR: W. Bateman) |
10:30-11:00 | Belay Methods for Competition Lead Climbing (I. Stewart-Patterson) |
11:00-11:30 | Training Modalities and Nutritional Interventions to Improve Tendon Health and Performance (E. Horst) |
11:30-12:00 | Sport Climbing in The Olympic Games (V. Schoeffl) |
12:00-13:00 | LUNCH |
13:00-15:30 | PRACTICAL SESSION THREE: (MODERATOR: Y. El-Sheikh) |
13:00-14:00 | Exploring a Pro Climber’s Journey: An evidence-Based Inquiry into Human Performance PART 1 (W. Bateman, A. Mandzuk) |
14:00-14:30 | COFFEE/REFRESHMENTS |
14:30-15:30 | Exploring a Pro Climber’s Journey: An evidence-Based Inquiry into Human Performance: PART 2 (W. Bateman, A. Mandzuk) |
15:30-15:45 | Closing Remarks (Y. El-Sheikh) |
19:00-23:00 | CLOSING DINNER |